Ōji Shrine — 王子神社 (東京都北区)

Every New Year’s Eve, foxes from across the Kantō region once gathered beneath a single enoki tree in the fields of what is now northern Tokyo. They dressed themselves in formal attire, formed a procession, and walked to Ōji Shrine to pay respects to their patron deity. Farmers would count the foxfire lanterns bobbing through the darkness to predict the year’s harvest—many lights meant abundance, few meant famine. The tree still stands, now surrounded by apartment blocks and convenience stores, and on the last night of December, hundreds of people wearing fox masks walk the old route through Kita Ward in reverse reenactment of a parade that may never have been more than collective dream.

Ōji Shrine was established in 1322 when Toyoshima Kiyomoto, a local lord, invited the kami of Kumano Shrine to this forested hill overlooking the Shakujii River. The name “Ōji” (Prince) derives from Kumano Gongen’s title as “Ōji Gongen.” During the Edo period, the shrine became one of the Ten Shrines of Edo, a pilgrimage circuit promoted by the shogunate, and the area developed into a popular excursion destination for townspeople seeking relief from the crowded city. The shrine served as a branch of the great Kumano network that stretched from Wakayama through eastern Japan, making it the closest point where Edo residents could access Kumano’s sacred power without weeks of mountain travel.

Izanagi no Mikoto and Izanami no Mikoto, the primordial couple who created the Japanese islands, are enshrined here as manifestations of Kumano Gongen. They are joined by Kagutsuchi no Mikoto, the fire deity whose birth killed Izanami and set in motion the separation of life and death. Additionally, Ukanomitama no Mikoto, the Inari rice deity, is enshrined here—the source of the shrine’s fox associations. This unusual combination reflects the syncretic nature of Kumano worship, which fused Shinto creation mythology with mountain asceticism and, later, Inari folk religion as Edo’s urban population sought agricultural blessings even in the city.

The Fox Procession legend centers on a massive enoki tree that stood in the rice fields between Ōji and Shōzoku Inari Shrine. On New Year’s Eve, foxes—servants of Inari—would gather at this tree, transform into human form wearing fine kimono, and process to Ōji Shrine carrying paper lanterns. The number of foxfire lights visible in the winter fields became a divination tool: abundant lights predicted good harvests, sparse lights warned of lean times. The original tree was cut down in 1929, but a descendant tree stands at the same location, now called Shōzoku Enoki (装束榎, “Costume Hackberry”). The fox procession is reenacted annually on New Year’s Eve as the Ōji Kitsune no Gyōretsu, with participants in fox masks and period clothing processing through the neighborhood, transforming folklore into living tradition that serves both tourism and genuine belief.

The main hall, rebuilt in 1963 after wartime destruction, sits atop a stone staircase shaded by ancient ginkgo trees. The shrine’s layout preserves its position on a hillside overlooking what was once the Shakujii River valley, now largely obscured by urban development. A secondary shrine to Guan Yu, the Chinese warrior deity, occupies the grounds—a remnant of Meiji-era cultural exchange. The shrine’s hair-tying stone (Kami-musubi-ishi) is said to have been used by medieval women to bind their hair during shrine visits; touching it is believed to prevent hair loss. The grounds include several atmospheric stone fox statues, some dating to the Edo period, their features softened by centuries of weather and the touch of supplicants’ hands.

• Ōji Kitsune no Gyōretsu (Fox Procession, December 31) — Hundreds of participants in fox masks process from Shōzoku Enoki tree to the shrine on New Year’s Eve, recreating the legendary gathering of foxes. Free amazake is served, and the atmosphere combines solemn ritual with carnival.
• Grand Festival (August, weekend closest to the 15th) — Traditional procession with mikoshi portable shrines, taiko drumming, and folk performances. The neighborhood associations compete in shrine-carrying vigor.
• Setsubun Bean-Throwing (February 3) — Spring purification ritual with roasted soybeans thrown to drive out demons and welcome good fortune.

New Year’s Eve for the fox procession, arriving by 10 PM to see the gathering at the enoki tree before the midnight walk begins. Otherwise, early morning in late November when the ginkgo trees turn gold and the grounds are nearly empty except for elderly locals doing radio exercises. Avoid the first three days of January unless you enjoy shoulder-to-shoulder crowds; this is a major hatsumode destination for northern Tokyo residents.