Kabushima Shrine — 蕪嶋神社

Kabushima Shrine sits on a small island in Hachinohe where, from March through July, tens of thousands of black-tailed gulls arrive to nest. The shrine grounds become a seabird rookery — eggs laid on shrine steps, birds nesting against torii posts, the air filled with constant cries. Worshippers navigate around nesting mothers to reach the main hall. The gulls are considered messengers of Benzaiten, and being struck by their droppings is celebrated as a blessing of good fortune. The shrine sells special protective charms specifically for those who’ve been so honored.

Kabushima Shrine was established in 1269 during the Kamakura period, though the island itself had been considered sacred since ancient times. The shrine was originally built to pray for maritime safety and abundant fishing catches in the treacherous waters off Hachinohe. In 2015, the main hall was destroyed by fire, but reconstruction was completed in 2020 with traditional methods and materials. The new structure honors the original Edo-period design while incorporating modern fire-prevention measures. Throughout its history, the shrine has maintained its unique relationship with the black-tailed gull colony, which predates written records and is protected as a Natural Monument of Japan.

Ichikishimahime no Mikoto is the primary deity, one of the three Munakata goddesses and a form of Benzaiten in syncretic practice. She governs water, maritime safety, music, and prosperity. The kami is particularly revered by fishermen and merchants, and the presence of the gulls is understood as her physical manifestation — the birds arriving each spring as proof of her continued blessing. Secondary deities include Tagorihime no Mikoto and Tagitsuhime no Mikoto, the other two Munakata sisters, creating a trinity of ocean protection.

The island’s name “Kabu” (turnip) comes from its shape when viewed from the sea, but local legend offers another origin. A fisherman once found a luminous turnip floating in the waters near the island. When he brought it ashore, it transformed into a beautiful woman who declared herself Benzaiten and asked that a shrine be built. The gulls, according to tradition, are souls of fishermen lost at sea who return each year to guard their families. The most persistent legend involves the droppings: being struck seven times in one visit guarantees wealth, though no one has reliably documented achieving this dubious honor. After the 2015 fire, gulls reportedly circled the ruins for three days without landing — interpreted as mourning.

The reconstructed main hall, completed in 2020, follows traditional nagare-zukuri style with a distinctive vermilion finish. The entire island measures only 1.8 hectares, connected to the mainland by a short bridge built in 1942. During nesting season, wooden walkways are roped off to protect eggs, forcing visitors into narrow paths between thousands of territorial birds. A small museum at the island’s base displays the history of human-gull coexistence and sells the famous “un-luck” charms — wordplay on “un” (feces) and “un” (luck). The island offers 360-degree ocean views, with the Tanesashi Coast visible to the north. Stone markers throughout indicate spots where notable blessings occurred.

• Kabushima Spring Festival (April) — Celebrates the return of the gulls with prayers for safe nesting and abundant fish catches
• Benzaiten Summer Festival (July) — Marks the fledging season when young gulls take their first flights; includes traditional dance performances
• New Year’s Hatsumode — Popular despite winter cold, as visitors seek business prosperity blessings without the chaos of nesting season
• Monthly Ocean Safety Prayers — Conducted for local fishing cooperatives on the first Sunday of each month

Late April through early June captures the nesting season at its most dramatic — maximum bird population with newly hatched chicks. The experience is visceral: constant noise, the smell of guano, dive-bombing protective parents. For those preferring contemplation to chaos, visit December through February when the gulls migrate south and the shrine returns to quiet ocean meditation. Early morning in any season offers the best light on the Pacific and smallest crowds. Golden week (late April-early May) combines peak bird activity with manageable visitor numbers, though weekends require patience navigating the narrow paths.