Izusan Shrine (伊豆山神社)

Izusan Shrine stands at the summit of 837 stone steps that climb the forested slope above Atami Bay, and it is the reason the entire Izu Peninsula carries its name. This is where Minamoto no Yoritomo, founder of Japan’s first shogunate, hid as a teenager in 1159 after his father’s defeat in the Heiji Rebellion. More significantly, it is where he met Hōjō Masako — the woman who would become his wife, bear his children, and after his death rule Japan as the shogunate’s de facto power. Their romance transformed this mountain shrine into Japan’s most famous site for prayers of love and marriage. Today, couples climb the stone stairs to stand where the future of feudal Japan began with two exiled teenagers meeting in secret.

The shrine’s origins reach back to the 6th century, though local tradition places sacred activity on this mountain far earlier. It was formally established during the reign of Emperor Kōtoku (645-654 CE) and became one of the most powerful religious centers in eastern Japan during the Heian and Kamakura periods. The shrine controlled extensive landholdings and maintained close ties with the warrior class. Its strategic location overlooking the sea and its association with the Minamoto clan elevated it to particular prominence after Yoritomo established the Kamakura shogunate in 1192. The shrine complex originally extended much further up the mountain to the Motomiya (original sanctuary) at the summit, though worship is now centered at the main hall reached by the 837 steps from sea level.

Izusan Ōkami is the collective name for the deities enshrined here, primarily Hakusan Hime no Mikoto, a goddess associated with sacred mountains, water, and relationships. She is paired with Ninigi no Mikoto (grandson of Amaterasu who descended to earth) and Hikohohodemi no Mikoto (his son). This triad represents divine descent, earthly fertility, and the binding of relationships — making the shrine particularly powerful for marriage prayers. The presence of Hakusan Hime connects Izusan to the sacred mountain worship network centered on Mount Hakusan in the Japanese Alps, suggesting ancient pilgrimage routes linking coastal and mountain spirituality.

The founding legend tells of a monk named Kūya who had a vision of a white-haired deity descending from the sky onto this mountain in 836 CE, though the shrine’s actual founding predates this by centuries. The vision formalized what locals had long known: the mountain itself was divine. The more historically grounded legend involves the teenage Yoritomo’s exile to Izu after the failed Heiji Rebellion of 1159. He was confined under the watch of the Hōjō family, but secretly visited Izusan Shrine to pray. There he encountered Hōjō Masako, daughter of his jailors. They met repeatedly at the shrine in defiance of political prohibitions. When Yoritomo eventually rose to power and established the shogunate, their marriage — begun with stolen meetings on this mountain — became the foundation of a new political order. A pair of ancient cedar trees near the main hall, called the “Couple Cedars,” marks where tradition says they pledged their love.

The approach begins at sea level in Atami with a bright vermilion torii gate marking the start of the 837 stone steps — a number chosen for spiritual significance rather than convenience. Approximately halfway up stands an auxiliary worship hall for those unable to complete the climb. The main precinct at the summit features a gracefully proportioned honden (main hall) rebuilt in 1597 after fire destroyed earlier structures. Two enormous cedar trees, each over 800 years old, flank the worship area — these are the “Couple Cedars” (Meotosugi) bound together with sacred rope. Behind the main complex, a trail continues up the mountain for another hour to reach Motomiya, the original summit sanctuary at 800 meters elevation, where the stone foundations of ancient buildings remain visible among the forest. Red and white ribbons tied throughout the precinct mark answered prayers of couples who met, married, or reconciled after visiting.

• Reisai (Annual Grand Festival) — April 14-15: The shrine’s most important celebration featuring procession of mikoshi (portable shrines), traditional music, and offerings commemorating the spring season when Yoritomo and Masako are said to have first met.
• Setsubun Festival — February 3: Bean-throwing ceremony for purification and good fortune in the coming year, with special prayers for couples.
• New Year Hatsumode — January 1-7: The shrine fills with couples making their first prayer of the year together, many coming to request blessing for marriage or partnership.
• Tanabata — July 7: Star Festival honoring the celestial lovers with bamboo decorations where visitors write wishes for love and relationships.

Early morning in late March or early April, when plum blossoms bloom in the lower precincts and the spring air is still cool enough to make the 837-step climb comfortable. The shrine faces east, so sunrise illuminates the main hall with particular beauty. Weekday mornings avoid the weekend crowds of couples. November offers momiji (autumn leaves) coloring the forest approach, though the climb generates enough warmth that autumn’s chill becomes an advantage. Visit on the 14th or 15th of any month to see monthly offerings and witness priests performing traditional rituals. The summer months bring intense humidity that makes the stone stairway treacherous with moisture.