Tado Taisha (多度大社)

Every May, a white horse is ridden at full gallop up a near-vertical earthen wall two meters high while fireworks explode overhead and thousands watch to see if horse and rider will make it to the top without falling. This is the Jōba Shinji, the horse-climbing ritual of Tado Taisha, and whether the horse succeeds or stumbles is read as an omen for the year’s rice harvest. The ritual has been performed for over 700 years at the base of Mount Tado in Mie Prefecture, where this shrine has stood since the 5th century as guardian of northern Ise.

Tado Taisha was established in the reign of Emperor Yūryaku (456-479 CE), making it one of the oldest shrines in the Tōkai region. It was founded as the protector shrine of the Kuwana district and the northern approach to Ise Jingū. During the Nara period, it was designated an ichinomiya — the highest-ranking shrine of Ise Province. The shrine’s importance grew during the Heian period when imperial messengers regularly visited to present offerings. The current main hall was reconstructed in 1789 after a fire, preserving the architectural style of the Edo period.

Amatsuhikone no Mikoto is the primary deity, a son of Takamimusubi no Mikoto and one of the celestial kami who descended during the pacification of the earthly realm. He is venerated as a deity of nation-building, protection, and agricultural abundance. The shrine also enshrines his father Takamimusubi no Mikoto in a secondary hall. White horses have been considered sacred messengers of Amatsuhikone since ancient times, which explains the unique equestrian ritual that defines the shrine’s character.

The Jōba Shinji ritual originates from a legend in which Amatsuhikone descended Mount Tado on a white horse to bring knowledge of rice cultivation to the people below. According to shrine records, the ritual began in the Kamakura period when a particularly severe drought threatened the region. Priests devised the horse-climbing ceremony as a test of divine favor — if the horse reached the summit, the kami blessed the harvest; if it fell, further purification was needed. The wall is set at an angle of approximately 45 degrees and packed with fresh earth each year. Young men from local families compete for the honor of being the rider, undergoing purification rituals for weeks beforehand.

The shrine complex consists of multiple buildings arranged on the lower slopes of Mount Tado. The main hall (honden) is built in the shinmei-zukuri style, similar to Ise Jingū, with simple unadorned cypress wood and a thatched roof. A distinctive feature is the white horse stable near the worship hall, where a sacred white horse is kept year-round and can be viewed by visitors. Stone steps lead up the mountain to a rear shrine (oku-no-in) about 30 minutes’ climb away, where Amatsuhikone is said to have first descended. The approach is lined with centuries-old cedar trees and stone lanterns donated by merchants who traveled the nearby Tōkaidō road.

• Jōba Shinji (May 4-5) — The famous horse-climbing ritual performed multiple times over two days, with different riders attempting the wall. The success rate varies year to year, adding genuine suspense to the event.
• Autumn Grand Festival (October) — Traditional kagura sacred dance performances and processions featuring portable shrines (mikoshi) carried through Kuwana.
• White Horse Viewing (January 7) — The sacred white horse is led before worshippers for the new year’s first blessing, a ritual practiced since the Heian period.

May 4-5 for the Jōba Shinji is the obvious choice, but arrive by 1 PM to secure viewing position as crowds exceed 100,000. For a quieter experience, visit on a weekday morning in autumn when the approach path is covered in fallen leaves and the white horse can be photographed without crowds. The rear shrine trail is particularly beautiful in November when the maple trees turn. Avoid the first three days of January when New Year crowds fill the grounds.