Ube Shrine — 宇倍神社

Ube Shrine appears on Japanese currency — or at least it did. The torii gate and surrounding landscape of this Tottori shrine were featured on the reverse of the five-yen note issued from 1899 to 1910, making it one of the few Shinto shrines to achieve literal monetary representation. The shrine sits on the lower slopes of Mount Ube, overlooking the city of Tottori and the Sea of Japan beyond, and has served for over 1,300 years as the primary guardian shrine of the Inaba region. Its currency connection was no accident: the enshrined deity is Takeminakatakami no Mikoto, a kami of military valor who became, through centuries of merchant worship, a patron of financial prosperity.

Ube Shrine was founded in 659 CE during the reign of Emperor Saimei, making it one of the oldest continuously operating shrines in the San’in region. The shrine was established by imperial decree to honor Takeminakatakami no Mikoto, who according to local tradition had pacified the Inaba territory during the age of the gods. During the Heian period, it was designated as one of the three great shrines of Inaba Province and received regular offerings from the imperial court. The shrine’s fortunes rose significantly during the Edo period when Tottori’s merchant class adopted it as their primary place of worship, transforming a military deity’s shrine into a center of commercial prayer. When the Meiji government needed imagery for Japan’s modernizing currency, Ube Shrine’s dramatic mountain setting and elegant torii made it an ideal symbol of traditional Japan.

Takeminakatakami no Mikoto (武御名方神) is the primary deity of Ube Shrine. He is the son of Ōkuninushi, the great deity of Izumo, and is most famous for his role in the Kojiki’s “Transfer of the Land” episode, where he challenged the heavenly deities’ claim to Japan. After his defeat, he retreated to Lake Suwa in present-day Nagano, where he became the chief deity of Suwa Grand Shrine. His presence at Ube Shrine represents his earlier role as a territorial guardian before his famous confrontation. Though originally a deity of military strength and wrestling — his contest with Takemikazuchi is considered the mythological origin of sumo — he evolved in popular worship into a kami of victory, perseverance, and ultimately commercial success. His divine messenger is the frog, symbol of safe return and financial return alike.

The shrine’s central legend tells of Takeminakatakami’s original journey to Inaba. According to local tradition preserved in shrine records, the deity arrived at Mount Ube in the form of a divine wind that caused the mountain’s trees to bend toward the sea, creating a natural pathway. Where the wind touched the earth, a spring erupted that never runs dry, even in the driest summers. This spring, called Ube no Shimizu, became the water source for the shrine and was believed to grant wishes related to travel and safe return — hence the frog imagery. A separate legend explains the shrine’s currency fame: a Meiji-era engraver from the Ministry of Finance came to Ube Shrine to pray for success in designing Japan’s new paper money. While sleeping in the shrine precincts, he dreamed of the torii gate framed by pine trees with Mount Ube rising behind, and woke to sketch exactly what he had seen. The design was approved, and the five-yen note bore this image for eleven years.

The shrine’s main hall dates to 1650, rebuilt after a fire during the early Edo period, and displays the elegant cypress-bark roofing and vermilion lacquer typical of Important Cultural Properties — a designation it received in 1953. The famous torii gate that appeared on currency stands at the base of the approach, a stone structure erected in 1821 by merchant donors from Tottori’s port district. The shrine grounds contain over three hundred stone lanterns lining the path to the main hall, most donated during the Meiji period when the shrine’s currency connection brought national fame. The sacred spring, Ube no Shimizu, flows from a stone basin near the main hall, and visitors still drink from it before making wishes. A small museum building houses the original printing plates and paper samples from the five-yen note, alongside Edo-period merchant account books that record offerings made for business success.

• Ube Shrine Grand Festival (April 21) — The main annual festival features a procession of mikoshi through Tottori city streets, traditional kagura performances depicting Takeminakatakami’s mythological contests, and the ritual drawing of sacred water from Ube no Shimizu
• Hatsukaichi (First Market Day, January 20) — Merchants and business owners gather for prayers for commercial prosperity, a tradition dating to the Edo period when market schedules aligned with shrine festival days
• Frog Festival (June 6) — A playful modern addition celebrating the shrine’s messenger animal, featuring frog-shaped offerings and prayers for the safe return of travelers
• New Year’s First Sunrise Viewing — The shrine’s elevation makes it a popular spot for hatsuhinode; worshippers climb before dawn on January 1 to watch the first sunrise over the Sea of Japan

Late April during the Grand Festival offers the most vibrant experience, when the shrine grounds fill with food stalls, kagura performances run continuously, and the entire approach is illuminated by lantern light after sunset. For contemplative visits, early morning in autumn provides the best conditions: October and November bring clear skies that allow views across Tottori to the sea, and the surrounding forest turns brilliant red and gold. The shrine is rarely crowded except during major festivals and New Year’s, making it ideal for unhurried exploration. Avoid mid-summer when the heat and humidity can make the uphill approach uncomfortable.