Utsunomiya Futarayama Shrine — 宇都宮二荒山神社

Utsunomiya Futaaryama Shrine sits on a forested hill in the centre of Utsunomiya city, its stone steps climbing sixty metres above the modern streets. The city’s name derives directly from this shrine — “Utsunomiya” meaning “shrine of Utsunomiya” — making it one of the few Japanese cities named after its tutelary shrine rather than geographic features. Founded in the sixth century, it claims to be the oldest Futarayama shrine in Japan, predating even Nikkō’s more famous namesake by five centuries. The current vermilion structures date from repeated Edo-period reconstructions, but the ritual calendar follows patterns established when this hill was the political and spiritual centre of Shimotsuke Province.

The shrine was established in 353 CE according to shrine records, though most historians date the founding to the late sixth century during the reign of Emperor Kinmei. It was built to enshrine the protective kami of the Toyoki clan, who governed this region as kuni no miyatsuko (provincial governors) under the Yamato court. The shrine became the ichinomiya (first-ranked shrine) of Shimotsuke Province by the Heian period, receiving imperial messengers and offerings. During the medieval period, it served as the spiritual centre for successive military governors, including the Utsunomiya clan who took their surname from the shrine itself. The main hall was destroyed by fire in 1868 during the Boshin War when Meiji government forces shelled the city, then rebuilt in 1877 in the gongen-zukuri style.

Toyoki Irihiko no Mikoto (豊城入彦命) is the primary deity, a prince and son of Emperor Sujin who was sent east to pacify and govern the Kantō region in the first century BCE according to the Kojiki. He is venerated as the ancestor of the Toyoki clan and the founding spirit of Shimotsuke Province. The shrine also enshrines Ōmononushi no Kami, the great deity of Mount Miwa who governs nation-building and agriculture, and Jingū Kōgō (Empress Jingū), the legendary warrior empress. Together, these kami represent governance, territorial protection, and martial valour — appropriate for a shrine that served as the spiritual foundation of regional power for over a millennium.

The shrine’s founding legend centres on Prince Toyoki Irihiko’s eastern expedition. Emperor Sujin had twin sons and needed to determine which would rule the Yamato heartland and which would govern the eastern frontiers. He asked each to describe their dreams. One brother dreamed of climbing Mount Mimoro and thrusting his spear eight times in all directions; the other dreamed of standing on the mountain’s peak and cutting down all who approached. The emperor interpreted the first dream as signifying rulership over the settled centre, the second as meaning conquest of the outer lands. Toyoki Irihiko, who dreamed of thrusting spears, was sent east with the imperial command to subdue and civilize the Kantō region. When he died, his spirit was enshrined on this hill, which became sacred ground marking the boundary between the civilized provinces and the northern frontier.

The shrine occupies a terraced hillside accessed by a steep stone stairway of ninety-six steps flanked by ancient cedar trees. The rōmon (tower gate) at the top, painted in vermilion and white, dates from 1769 and displays intricate carvings of Chinese lions and phoenixes. The main hall, rebuilt in 1877, follows the gongen-zukuri architectural style where the worship hall and main sanctuary share a single roof connected by a stone-floored ishinoma (stone chamber). The precinct contains several subsidiary shrines, including one dedicated to Bake-dōrō (化燈籠), a “transforming lantern” said to frighten late-night travellers by shape-shifting — one of Japan’s few shrines to a yōkai. The shrine grounds also house a large stone associated with the legendary warrior monk Benkei, who supposedly tested his strength by lifting it.

• Grand Autumn Festival (October 21) — The shrine’s most important annual festival featuring procession of portable shrines through downtown Utsunomiya and performances of ancient kagura dance in the worship hall
• Setsubun Festival (February 3) — Bean-throwing ceremony attended by local politicians and sumo wrestlers, who scatter blessed beans to drive away evil spirits from the city
• Hatsumode (January 1-3) — New Year’s first shrine visit drawing over 100,000 worshippers, with special protective amulets distributed and hot amazake served to visitors
• Chrysanthemum Festival (November) — Display of elaborate chrysanthemum arrangements in the shrine grounds, a tradition dating to the Edo period

Early November offers the ideal combination of autumn colour in the hillside cedars and the chrysanthemum festival displays without the intense crowds of New Year. The ninety-six stone steps are framed by turning maple leaves, and the vermilion buildings stand vivid against the golds and reds of the surrounding forest. Weekday mornings from 8-10 AM provide quiet contemplation before tour groups arrive from Tokyo. The shrine is beautifully illuminated during the autumn festival in late October, when paper lanterns line the stairway and traditional music echoes from the worship hall. Winter visits after snowfall reveal the shrine in monochrome serenity, though the steps can be treacherous.